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THE REPORTS ARE IN - THE AT PRO IS THE MOST AWESOME DETECTOR EVER BUILT...

Now, Tom Dankowski says even with the higher frequency the Fisher F75LTD will go deeper on silver than the Omega, due to it's high overpowering gain (or something like that). But the tradeoff is that it is noisy.

Tom is testing and referring to Florida sandy soil which is about like "air testing". There is no mineralization there. In minerals everything changes. I have both an F75 LTD and an Omega-8000, the O8K is as deep as anything, in disc, in minerals, and has a better TID at depth, in minerals than the F75 LTD running in BP mode does. I bought the O8K brand new with two coils shipped for 499.00... the AT-P may be a better machine... it is according to what you are hunting and the ground you are hunting. The frequency will be hot on relics but should do ok on silver too. The O8K will hit and correctly ID a minnieball at 10", one that has been buried for 21+ years... but only if the GB is set just right... I would imagine setting the GB will be important on the AT-P, more so if you're hunting silver, less so if you're hunting lead, brass, or gold... but I am assuming some things.

If I had to choose i'd take the Omega over the F75 LTD... but both are good. Omega has an iron range like the AT-P of 0-39, so does the T2.

What I think is that technology has gotten to the point where machines are beginning to level out and they are all good and are good and all at a good price point.

J
 
I think you like detectors as much as I do, i'll be really interested to see what you think...

J
 
n/t
 
I'm not convinced yet that I want to try one but I might... I guess you can tell I like detectors. I have been trying to learn the V3 but my "go to" is still the E-TRAC. The GT is pretty much for beach use, at least for me. I like to use the F75 BP/AM at places that are pretty much worked out, the T2 for relic hunting at new sites for fast swinging... but I really rarely use it anymore. The Tejon is good in iron but will signal good on large iron, the Gt on small iron. the ET is the very best at unmasking targets.

Two machines have my eye. The AT because it is waterproof, but I am concerned about how the added pressure of currents and waves at the beach might affect the waterproofing, will the pressure at 1 foot in a current equal more than the pressure at 10 foot in calm water? The other machine is the Teknetics G2 because it shares some coils with the Omega-8000 that I already have and it runs at 19khz, has 0-39 iron range and user definable 2 tone cutoff settings. It should be a killer relic machine like the Omega is a coin magnet... then again the AT may be the bomb...

I need to get off my butt and sell some of these machines I am not using much or don't like much... but I hate taking such a beating on them... but it don't seem like it is going to get any better.

Maybe Obama will have a cash for detectors program soon...

J
 
The AT is divided up into several, separate, waterproof compartments as a safety measure so it is designed to handle any wet situation.

Bill
 
I have one on order. I believe I got a great deal from New england detectors. My only concern is how is it going to work in the surf. Any Ideas?
 
jbow said:
I'm not convinced yet that I want to try one but I might... I guess you can tell I like detectors. I have been trying to learn the V3 but my "go to" is still the E-TRAC. The GT is pretty much for beach use, at least for me. I like to use the F75 BP/AM at places that are pretty much worked out, the T2 for relic hunting at new sites for fast swinging... but I really rarely use it anymore. The Tejon is good in iron but will signal good on large iron, the Gt on small iron. the ET is the very best at unmasking targets.

Two machines have my eye. The AT because it is waterproof, but I am concerned about how the added pressure of currents and waves at the beach might affect the waterproofing, will the pressure at 1 foot in a current equal more than the pressure at 10 foot in calm water? The other machine is the Teknetics G2 because it shares some coils with the Omega-8000 that I already have and it runs at 19khz, has 0-39 iron range and user definable 2 tone cutoff settings. It should be a killer relic machine like the Omega is a coin magnet... then again the AT may be the bomb...

I need to get off my butt and sell some of these machines I am not using much or don't like much... but I hate taking such a beating on them... but it don't seem like it is going to get any better.

Maybe Obama will have a cash for detectors program soon...

J

I enjoyed reading your comments on various models. Will be intresting to hear what model you choose between the AT and G2. I see that you have the T2 and the f75ltd.....is your T2 the original version?? It seems that people are kinda slow to purchase the updated T2. I relic hunt mostly. Looks like the newer model detectors are trying to cover both bases...relics and coins. What's your opinion of ID meters on relic machines??? Nautilus and vintage Fisher (non metered) are still great relic hunters.
 
modular waterproofing should make servicing easier.

1: Something gets water in it or something fails for any reason it might would likely be the easiest thing to just replace that module and address the outer case waterproofing (if water was the problem).

2: Depending on what module failed the reapir could be cheaper... it has the real possibility to save in labor cost.

3: Repairs might be able to be done faster, even if it happend that there is a design flaw. If the parts (module) is available repair should not backup.

I don't see a downside to a modular design. Any waterproof design will fail if the outercase is breached, in the case of the AT the water has to breach both the outer case and one of the modules. Modular design does not equal more things to break because those parts would be there anyway. Putting them in seperate compartments should not make them more likely to fail.

If the outer case has failed and there is no way to tell, that could be a weak point but... if there is a way to check for a breach of the outer case (after water hunting) that solves the problem. Especially if there is a simple seal to replace and an extra seal or gasket (and complete replacement instructions) is included with the new machine in case the old original fails.

It sould become the industry standard in physical design if it cuts reapir cost, speeds repair, waterproofs, and maybe even makes the machine easier for the end user to fix.

While i'm at it...
Detectors should be designed with a USB port for remote diagnosis. It would really be nice if you could plug your detector into your computer, connect the detector with the manufacturer, and get a diagnosis or software upgrade. Other products in this price range have been doing this for years, one is Line6 guitar amplifiers. They have a website with all their products and once you are registered with a SN you can connect the amp through your computer and get any software updates... just like with Windows or IE or any software. Most all software updates are done online... why not detector software?
Anyway, with this modular design it should be a short step to design a remote online diagnosis, make the modules "plug and play", and move toward sending a part to the user with instructions of how to replace the old with the new... as opposed to having the send the detector in if anything goes wrong.
Modular design is a step in this direction (I hope) even if the modules could be designed with test points that could be checked with a multimeter and replaced by the user. Sounds like a win/win situation to me.

J
 
Will be intresting to hear what model you choose between the AT and G2.

If at all possible I will be getting both.

is your T2 the original version??

Yes, it is 6.0 and I also had an original F75, now have the LTD. I sold my F to a friend who loved it and still does.

What's your opinion of ID meters on relic machines?

I am mostly a relic hunter too. I have never used a Nautilus or a vintage Fisher. The E-TRAC and the V3 have the most accurate TID on deep targets but mostly I use them to help tell ferrous from non-ferrous and dig all non-ferrous. The ET unmasks targets really well, it is still an "iffy" signal but the CO number is very reliable. I've found good stuff using the CO number on one way hits in some really hard hunted places. The FTP detectors usually give a VDI that bounces all over the place on a deep target, at least around here in this bad ground. There is a local hunter who has been using the GBSE (which is a lot like the G2) and finding some good stuff at "hunted out" camps. He says it unmasks really well too. He regards it as the best relic machine right now and he trys them all... usually more than one if he likes them. I think he has two GBSEs and a T2... don't know what else but he has tried them all.

The AT-P looks like it has the ability to be a really good relic hunter.

Julien
 
I think you will be telling us...

J
 
If Garrett thinks this will be such a Great machine, why don't they give us all a 30 day trial. We use it and if we like it, we keep it. If not we return it, no questions asked!
 
Any information on how the ATpro will work in the surf? Is it going to be reliable when the minerals moving? Its one thing I did not see in the videos.
 
i believe what they say about the at pro the ace and pro-pointer did what they first said about them and more.it will not be long now to see if they live up to there word.
 
Maybe you should pay attention instead of whineing. There many in the field action videos of the AT PRO on youtube, mainly from Civil War sites in the South.
 
bearkat4160 said:
Maybe you should pay attention instead of whineing. There many in the field action videos of the AT PRO on youtube, mainly from Civil War sites in the South.

I've have watched all those videos too and I haven't seen anything resembling a real field test. All I have seen are air tests and guys pulling targets out of holes. I haven't seen any videos showing VDI readings over a target then showing what the target is, I haven't seen any videos that are playing the detector audio over a real in the ground target (not an air test). I haven't see the detector responding to know targets at know depths in a test garden. Those are all things I do expect to see in a real field test.

Can you direct me to such a video?
 
I manly detect for gold using Aussie detectors and can be out for weeks,Ive always got my GTI 2500 at hand for old sites and when I hit town for supplies I will do the parks for some beer or gas money,just recently I thought I would buy a new coin and relic detector and was trying to buy a V3 but as luck turned out none of you yanks would post to Australia [second hand on ebay]so I got to thinking what else was on the market and do I really need to fork out big $ for something that is going to do the same job,and why would I be looking at other brands when my garrett ace 250 served me so well and the GTI paid for it self and my pro pointer is like a tool you couldn't live without,after having a good talk to my dog and pondering my stupidity I saw the At PRO and did`t have to think twice and ordered one,my biggest problem now is the anticipation in waiting for it to arrive,I'm as excited as my dog with a bone,,Good luck to you all,Bazza
 
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