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Stainless or Aluminium Scoop?

stavr said:
Moderator.
inappropriately delete my messages in part, meaningless.
if you do not like my posts, delete all messages at once.
thanks.
Number9 .If you are interested to continue dialogue on the titanium scoop and can write me an email stavrscoop@gmail.com

Stavr and all,

That is to bad! I was thoroughly enjoying and looking forward to this information on scoops. Even though the translation was a bit cumbersome, the information shared back and forth was great and highly informative.

Kind Regards,
Steve
 
The only thing I remember being removed is the pictures of the scoops that Stavr posted. They are a great example of quality designs and fabrication and for this reason I'm sorry to see them removed from the message thread!!

-Wayne
 
...... lost not only images but also the message.
 
Stavr...
Your posts may have been deleted because they were viewed as being "commercial"?
If so, I can understand the reason for it.
Many boards will post a reply telling why something has been deleted, this prevents a guessing game
and to remind others of the rules.
 
I realized that was viewed as commercial and removed .....

Our discussion of titanium and stainless steel also have a commercial sense, so I'd rather discuss these topics on other sites.
will follow the rules.
the way the message "I bought a scoop "..." and happy, too, can be regarded as the hidden commercial advertising.
how do you explain a man without a picture what do you scoop ... ,on his fingers?
 
Personally, I don't see a problem with anyone talking about a product we use, or buy, for metal detecting. I guess if you are the one selling advertisement space on a board for a product, you may have a slightly different opinion?
Talking about products we use can benefit the user as well as the company who makes the products. But, if no one talks... we may never find the "perfect scoop"!
With over 1,850 views on this thread... I don't think I'm the only one looking?!
 
Number9.I agree with you.

How much is in the U.S. titanium grade 2 or grade 5?
 
Stavr,

Not sure what the new price would be on grade 2?

A friend that makes stainless scoops sent me an email that said...

"My goal is the perfect scoop if not for sale at least to use. Titanium seems to be closer to that!
I got a quote from a supplier on the net and it about blew my socks off!

Pleased to offer Titanium Grade 5
.078"/.080" x 36" x 96" (inches)
1 pc $1,760.00/pc
FOB Shipping Point

That is about $350 per scoop in material alone. There's no way I could rely on salvage material an take orders, but I could build a couple of scoops that way. Seems that there will also be some major design changes."

As you can see... the price is high!

Why Grade 2?
 
Number9 . 86usd/kg - really expensive.

why Grade 2? - if you read all the properties of titanium and not only the strength of the line you will understand everything ...
 
ok,
will send your idea ...
what do you do after welding grade 5?
you bring your scoop in termopech with an inert environment? and doing a full heat treatment tsykl 6 o'clock? and how much you are worth?
 
I don't understand why you would use Grade 2? The properties of Grade 5 exceeds Grade 2 in many ways?

Grade 5... no heat treatment after welding.
 
I do not doubt that you do not understand ...., I said that we think differently, but there is nothing offensive.
example:
NASA did not realize how long the rocket engine realized in Ukraine under the same size can be more powerful than the US-fold at 10-20.

U.S. Navy did not understand how it is a Russian torpedo may have speed in the water 1.5 km / s, has not yet sunk the Kursk ...

you now have described the tale of missile defense is not able to bring down the actual establishment of the missile in the last millennium, those who think differently, it is clear that this policy

ps;Some phrases can be translated into the not correctness, but I think the meaning is clear
 
Number9 .translated and read, it can help you to understand.

alpha+β-структурой мартенситного типа
В эту группу входят среднелегированные р-стабилизиру-ющими элементами сплавы с Ка =0,3-0,9, термически Упрочняемые путем закалки и старения. Сплавы этой
группы непосредственно после сварки имеют пониженную пластичность сварного соединения в связи с образованием в структуре шва довольно прочной мартенситной а'-фазы. Для восстановления пластичности сварных соединений у сплавов такого типа применяют стабилизирующую термическую обработку, в результате которой а'-фаза превращается в стабильные а+р-составляющие.
Большинство сварных конструкций из а+b-сплавов мартенситного типа изготовляют с прочностью сварных соединений 85-100 кгс/мм2. Реже сварные конструкция подвергают упрочняющей термической обработке на прочность 105-130 кгс/мм2, и тогда швы утолщают и подвергают отжигу, при этом достигается равнопрочность конструкции и обеспечивается достаточная на-дежность сварного соединения.
Сплав ВТ6 - аналог широко применяемого зарубежного сплава Ti-6Аl-4V [2, 121], а также отечественного сплава ВТ6С. Изготавливается сплав в виде листом плит, прутков, поковок, штамповок, сварных колец. Сплав может применяться как в отожженном, так и в I термически упрочненном (закалка+старение) состояниях. Упрочняющей термической обработкой прочности сплава может быть увеличена на 15-20%. Сплав удовлетворительно сваривается всеми видами сварки, применяемыми для титана. Сварное соединение сплава ВТ6 непосредственно после сварки имеет несколько пониженную пластичность. Для восстановления пластичности сварного соединения требуется стабилизирующая термическая обработка. Прочность сварных соединений сплава ВТ6, выполненных ААрДЭС неплавящимся электродом без присадки, составляет после отжига при 760- 800
 
properly displayed ...
write to me in an email, I'll give you the full text
 
Stavr,

I ask only simple questions... not because I'm a simple man... but because it is better for our understanding of a different language.

It is my opinion that Grade 5 titanium would make the strongest, lightest, most durable sand scoop that can be made.
More Grade 5 titanium is made than the other grades, it shouldn't be difficult to obtain with titanium production to double in the next ten years. I see no advantage using Grade 2 titanium in place of Grade 5 to make a sand scoop. The only advantage Grade 2 has over Grade 5 is it has a higher corrosion resistance to some chemicals and is easier to fabricate because the tensile and yield is lower.

The outer hull of the Kursk, made of high-nickel, high-chrome content stainless steel 8.5 mm thick, had exceptionally good resistance to corrosion. But, may have been better if made from titanium!?

Humm? Maybe I do understand!?
 
Number9. BT6 and BT6c (grade 5 titanium and Ti-6Al-4V) refers to alloys with alpha + β-structure of the martensitic type, which loaded the welding seam requires heat-treatment mandatory.
Read technological literature.
I gave his opinion (imho)

Kursk "..., still What made the submarine when it comes cavitation torpedo, even without a charge ...
sorry for the people who died.
housing our submarines are made of titanium and stainless steel but on top they are covered with a thick layer of rubber ...
 
Heat treatment of titanium fabrications is not normally necessary. Annealing may be necessary following severe cold work if restoration of ductility or improved machinability are desired. A stress relief treatment is sometimes employed following severe forming or welding to avoid cracking or distortion due to high residual stresses, or to improve fatigue resistance.

When welding light gauge 6-4 to make a scoop, heat treat after welding shouldn't be a problem.

The most important part of welding titanium is the metal must be clean, free of scale, oxide, dirt, paint, grease, and oil. And all areas must maintain Inert gas shielding during welding, surrounding metal above 800
 
Do you have to have inert gas flowing of the underneath surface area of the side being welded? Gonna build one of those things and checked at AirGas today about titanium rod. I have to buy a full pound...or find a place to shear a small piece to use as a filler rod like you did. Can't just by a rod or two like you can all the rest of the TIG rod. How much rod did it take weld yours together. Equivalent to a couple lengths of SS rod 1/8"?
Since you explained I won't be able to bend the thing and I want to make it with the sharp point like the Nutall I guess I'll have additional seams to weld. The 'body' of the thing would be 4 pieces welded at the seams and then a backing plate.
Enjoy watching you and our Russian friend discuss the metals. Interesting too about the cavitating torpedo and the Kursk. For awhile the US was blamed for creating that catastrophic event. If world relations had been better perhaps the US could have assisted faster and saved some of the sailors on board. Politics getting in the way of common sense and the value of human life. Jim
 
grumpyolman..when I have a piece of Aluminum to bend that is to thick to work with, and I guess this would be the same for Ti but thin , I cut a seam which is almost like A {V} then, bent , then just fill in the seam with the weld, not sure if it is any stronger but it does look better from the outside and is much easier to bend.
My question for the Pros's.Starv & No9......Question 1...........I have Argon-Helium's for my MiG Welder, can I use this...Question 2 ........ I had a friend that worked at a place called Pressure Science { And they made certain parts for sub's }, when they welded exotic metals, the full project would have to be heated to a certain Temperature. Then welded while Hot......Is this necessary?
Short Story about Pressure Science.......... The Loss of USS Thresher in 1963 was traced back to them, over some of the parts & how they were brazed/welded.........Another sad part to this story is most of the people that worked at PS have now died from or are being treated for cancer.


Joe
 
Hi Jim,

It is best to have gas shielding on the back side of the two pieces you're welding together. As soon as the metal reaches 800 degrees(some say 500) the metal will start to be contaminated from the oxygen in the air. On straight pieces you can use a brass backing bar clamped in the corner to cut down on the air reaching the back side of the weld... but this is taking a chance that the metal will not become contaminated.
The best way is to make "purge blocks" and they are worth the time and trouble, to make sure the weld is 100%!
They don't need to be anything special... I've made them from aluminum foil with a tube running to it to purge the back side of the weld area. All you'll need is to "Y" the hose after it leaves the flow meter on the regulator and use a small valve to control the amount of argon to the "purge block" using a common hose. You can get the "Y" from the welding supply... everything else from Lowes or any hardware store
You will find some very good info here... Welding Titanium

You can use cut 1/16"-3/32"strips from the edge of sheets... this is called "Poor Mans Filler Rods".
You DO NOT want to buy Grade 5 filler rod from a welding supply for a small project!!... they're so cheap!!;)
You can find tig rod on eBay sold by the rod... I would say around 6 or 8 rods (18" long) would do.

Just make sure you make a model from paper or other material before cutting your titanium!
All edges must be very clean before welding and your filler rod too. But this is standard with any metal and using a purge gas on the back side of stainless and other metals is common too.

We hope to be walking the beach at St. Simons Island, GA during the Thanksgiving week. Just a few miles south is a location called Kings Bay. Wouldn't it be great if places like that in the World were only needed as a fishing village?

Best at ya!
-Wayne
 
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